The Penitents of Les Mees

 Tuesday 17/03/26

The Penitents as viewed from our house
Unfortunately you can't see the village built along the base of the cliffs

Les Mees, a town in the valley below us, has huge rock cliffs towering above it called the Penitents as it resembles monks in sackcloth.  There is a trail from the town, up and around the huge rock formation which we've been meaning to hike  ever since we saw the town.  

Today, in spite of being a little stiff from romping in the snow yesterday, we decided to hike the trail before doing some shopping. The total trail, even though only 5km in length takes 2 hours to hike due to the very steep ascent (200m) and then descent again!  

The higgledy piggledy houses of Les Mees


It was quite steep and challenging in parts but absolutely spectacular.  We commented on how rough-and-ready some of the trails are in France.  In the UK they would installed guardrails along the entire route and in South Africa they would have built a zip-line from the top. 😀




I think we might take the day off tomorrow!





Snow-time on the Lure

Monday 16/03/26



 Although the weather has started becoming more spring-like, we've been subjected to a late winter storm.  We even had a little snow in Mallefougasse followed by icy cold conditions and a very strong Mistral wind.  This usually has the effect of clearing all the weather away so when we woke up this morning to a beautiful blue shy, we decided to head up to the top of the Lure to enjoy the snow.  

The snow was melting and the drops would re-freeze but the strong wind 
caused all the icicles to grow at an angle

Stunning views out to the North with the Alps in the distance



Even though the old ski station is only 5km from the house as the crow flies, it is a 25km drive.  Still, it's hard to believe that we have this winter-wonderland on our doorstep.  Although the air temperature was around 0°C when we arrived, the sunshine (and exercise) warmed us up enough to really enjoy the outing.  




We had a wonderful walk and still get quite giddy at the beauty of the snow covered trees and mountainside.  It really is so different to where we grew up.  We are just grateful to have the right type of clothing for this weather as well!




Bonus video:-  This should give you an idea of the wind







Snow-time in Mallefougasse

 Thursday 8/01/26

We've been watching snow covering most of France over the past couple of days but it all missed us -  until now.



We woke up this morning to a wonderful fluffy snow shower - it really is magical.  It really is spectacular, everything smells, sounds and looks so different under the white blanket. 



 Luckily we have nothing chasing us today so we'll spend most of it in front of the  fireplace.



Bonus video:-



Autumn in Provence

 Thursday 30/10/25

With the inevitable cooler weather and autumnal storms, Provence also stuns with the most magnificent colour show.

Here are some pics from the garden - as you can see, autumn also means a lot of raking...








Col Agnel and Italy

 Friday 5/9/26

Close to the Col, looking back over France

We had a massive thunderstorm last night so everything was soaked and chilly this morning.  This, coupled with the fact that my knee has been playing up a bit meant we opted for a drive today as opposed to our planned hike.

Looking out over the Italian Alps
Can you tell we were too chicken to walk to the end of the path - and a sheer drop.

The closest entry point into Italy is only 32km from here but the drive takes around an hour, through the narrowest of villages and winding up through the valley.  Again, we tipped our hats at the cyclists battling up the never-ending uphill stretch.  


There was a lot of road works at the summit as they are building new parking areas so it was very tight and congested.  We turned around after stopping briefly in Italy, because we decided that getting to the first Italian village would entail an accumulation of too many hairpin bends for us for a day.


We stopped on the way back for a lovely
Plat de Jour et café.  

The scenery around here is just amazing, it's fantastic to have such a beautiful area so close to where we live.  Lots to explore!

Tomorrow we'll see if we can tackle our planned hike.



Briançon, the Col d'izoard and Abriès

 Friday 5/9/26


Anyone not wanting to look at loads of mountains - look away now!

As much as we love our new home in Mallefougasse, we were both determined to do a late summer exploratory trip into the Alps before winter sets in.  

Neither of us ski and we wanted to see what hiking facilities are like relatively close to us.  We'd booked into an apartment in Abriès based on a personal recommendation by our landlady.  Luckily we were warned the main access road into the town was blocked for repairs on the day we arrived so we planned a longer route via Briançon, to the north and then down over the Izoard pass.  We did want to see the mountains, after all.

The old walled town in Briançon. 



We were blown away by the sheer number of cyclists slogging their way (mostly successfully) up this extreme route but between them, the narrow roads and millions of motorcycles thundering up and down, it made for a rather tense but worthwhile drive.  The views along the way and from the top of the pass were absolutely amazing!


Mountains, as far as the eye can see.




Even though we are still in France, the road resembles a piece of spaghetti.

Our apartment is in the middle of the village, and overlooks the local supermarket / boulangerie aptly named the Sherpa.  From there we can watch all the hikers departing in the morning and new ones arriving in the afternoon, desperate for sustenance.  Although very much geared for winter sports with numerous ski slopes around us, the summer season is definitely hiking season.  The village is along the GR58, a 100km hiking route winding it's way through the Queyras region.

We're not sure if she's looking after the lamb or the post.

Abriès village.  We're staying in the apartments in the lower right of picture

The interior of the church is exquisitely decorated

We still need to build up some mileage and buy some more serious kit but we are definitely planning on tackling the 100km trail next spring; it's contagious being here.  We've done a few shorter hikes from the town and, although very, very hilly, it is really beautiful. We're sleeping well at night with tired legs!




Hiking up the Lure

 Tuesday 26/08/25

Ever since we arrived in Mallefougasse, we have been planning to walk up the mountain behind our house. 

Heading out bright and early.

We have been doing longer and longer hikes in the area to build up our stamina and wait for the right day (cooler conditions) to mount our assault.  

From our side, the mountain has the profile of three large hills piled on top of each other, rising from our village, at 750m above sea-level, to 1,800m at the peak of the Lure.  The northern profile is quite different, dropping sharply into the valley far below.

Our route from the yellow start following the hearts.
You can see the very defined ridge line.

There are numerous tracks on our side, mostly used by hunters and the summer shepherds with their flocks. These tracks are very rough, comprising loose rocks carried down by the rain storms and only a few of them are maintained at all.  Although we could see some tracks on Google Maps, it was impossible to see their condition and, the higher up one goes, the less clear the tracks are.

Much of the trail is wooded but every now and again you reach a clearing and the 
views just keep getting better as you climb

Nonetheless, we had decided today was the day, leave it too late in the season and we might risk running out of time.  We set our alarm for silly-o-clock and woke up early, packed loads of water and sandwiches for breakfast en-route.

As the routes we use aren't really hiking trails, they don't follow the usual 'meandering' route but tackle the incline head-on with no breaks from the relentless uphill on the way up and downhill on the return.  

As we were nearing the top we could hear the bells of a flock of goats/sheep and the barking of their accompanying Patou, very big sheepdogs.  We were a bit wary as there have recently been a few incidents of hikers being attacked with this type of dog, kept to protect the herd from wolves and other predators.  The dogs aren't always able to tell the difference between innocent hikers and predators, so we decided to divert across bramble-infested bush to try and get another trail.  In the end we were able to get around the flock and reached the ridgeline.  

The views were absolutely breath-taking at the top!   

The wind was icy and almost gale-force so we took a few photos, ate our breakfast and headed back down again, trying to beat the heat of the day.

Views worth walking up a hill for.

Happy faces




We were within 100m of our property when we noticed a deer in the neighbour's garden with a plastic watering-can stuck on it's head.  I walked towards it to see if I could help but as soon as it heard me, it panicked and started running away wildly, crashing into everything in it's path.  We couldn't leave it like that so I raced off after it, hoping to head it off before the road below our property.  In spite of it running around blindly, it was still able to reach the road before me but luckily there was no traffic.  Fortunately I could then run quietly on the tar to catch up with it near our neighbour's gate and then grab the handle of the watering can.  She pulled her head out and ran off - huge relief all around.

By now our legs were also feeling quite wobbly so we headed home, feeling a great sense of accomplishment and reward.
Total distance walked, 15km, vertical distance 850m, time taken 4.5 hours.

Now, what's next! 


Bonus video:-

The wind is the only soundtrack but you get a better idea of the views in the video.