Channel crossing - Queenborough to Calais

 Saturday 2 May 26


We woke early, keen to get the day underway.  A quick breakfast, checked the weather forecast and we were underway.  The Swale was calm in the early morning but the tide wasn't helping us as much as we had hoped.  Our view was mainly of mud but the bird life was amazing, even the odd seal was spotted.

Leaving our mooring in Queenborough

Calm waters of the Swale.  Mud everywhere.



It took around three hours for us to get through the winding Swale, entering the channel at Whitstable,  and once we were past the channel markers we turned east to follow along the North Kent coast.  The going was steady but sedate and by the time we had reached the Margate area, we needed to make a decision how to proceed.  The wind had been forecast as southerly, but as it blew up the channel between England and France, it turned easterly into the estuary so we had been chugging into it for hours with no outlook of improving conditions.  There were also storms forecast for the evening.



With the time we had lost to the tide and wind we realised that we would only arrive at Nieuwpoort in the middle of the night and with the weather threatening, it seemed the prudent decision was to aim for Calais so we started tracking south down the Kent coast in order to cross the shipping lanes at the correct angle.


Luckily Nathan had a warm waterproof that fitted me

By then it seemed as though we had been travelling for hours but the view of the English coast wouldn't leave us, and there was no sign of the French coast because of the low cloud and haze.  it was amazing to see how quickly the huge ships would move, but we were lucky in that our progress somehow threaded between all of them so we didn't need to deviate at all.

Unsettled sky

It was already late by the time we could see the coast and I got a bit disorientated when a DFDS ferry passed in front of us.  I was at the helm and had assumed it was going into Calais and would help me get my bearing on the harbour mouth.  Unfortunately it just passed by on its way to Dunkirk, leaving us rolling over it's wake.

Wake turbulence from the ferry

As we were approaching the channel we could see another ferry incoming and, although it was still some miles away, it's greater speed meant it was safely past and docking before we even entered the fairway.  We were then asked by the harbour-master to hold off to the south of the fairway as another ferry was en-route and we could enter the harbour after it.  By now we had already been through one rain shower and there was thunder and lightning in the air; we were keen to get into a mooring for the night.


Keeping well out of the way of ferry traffic who get preference here

When we finally entered the harbour and motored through into the basin we met the Australian couple again who gave us directions to moor on one of the buoys as we would only be able to enter the canal on Sunday at high tide.  Just as Charmaine and I went to catch the buoy and tie off the bow the heavens opened.  Luckily we were both in waterproofs or else we would have been soaked.

We all spent a sleep-disrupted night, every time a ferry entered or left the harbour we would get bounced around so it was a welcome relief the next day to get through into the start of the canal system.  Charmaine and Nathan went into the port to sort the customs paperwork and we were then invited to have a drink on the very fancy barge owned by the Aussies.

Calm waters of the Canal de Calais

The next morning I headed off to catch a train back home and Nathan and Charmaine headed off for some adventures in the canal systems.

A sad farewell after a fabulous trip

Well done Hendrina, excellent captaining by Nathan supported by Charmaine.  A real treat to cross the channel on a piece of nautical history with such an accomplished team. I had a brilliant time!

London - Queenborough 46 nm (85km) 8hrs
Queenborough - Calais 78 nm (145km) 15hrs

Hendrina's next night's mooring, happy sailing!



Channel crossing - London to Queenborough

 Friday 1 May 26


Hendrina is almost 100 years old, is 19.75m long, 3.73m wide and weighs around 45 tons (and could take another 50 tons of cargo).  She travels quite slowly, 7 knots maximum (around 13 km/h) but we usually travel much slower to conserve diesel and avoid overworking the engine.  This means the tides and winds can have a massive effect on travel times, especially on a long-distance trip like we were planning to undertake.

The Thames is tidal along the stretch we  be were going to be travelling so we needed to time it to set off two hours before peak tide, punch through the last of the incoming tide, catch the slack tide in the region of Tower Bridge - a notoriously turbulent area - and then use the receding tide to draw us down to the estuary.

On our way at last!

The Clock Tower with Big Ben

This meant we could only set off around lunchtime and faced the prospect of a late finish.  Going through central London was certainly a challenge I would only consider doing it with an experienced captain like Nathan, as he regularly pilots these waters; he has the added advantage of usually getting treated considerately by the other captains, most of whom know him.



Tower Bridge



The Thames winds back and forth slowly, around Canary Wharf you can motor for 10 km along the water and only move 5km closer to the sea - very slow going.  

Canary Wharf

The further we moved from London, the fewer boats were buzzing around us although those moored on the shores loading or unloading were getting bigger and bigger.  At one stage we were tracking two huge ferries bearing down on us from behind but luckily we branched off on a side-channel just before they caught up.  At this stage, the Thames was more than wide enough for them to over-take us but it would have been a bit bumpy crossing their wakes.

Approaching the Thames Barrier

A rare over-taking by Hendrina.  Nathan got permission to use an alternative
channel through the barriers to pass the slow-moving barge

We would prefer to avoid meeting one of these
monster vessels behind us on the Thames

It was getting late by the time we entered the Medway estuary and we then turned into The Swale, a narrow waterway around the Isle of Sheppey.  From there it was a shortish run to Queenborough, our destination for the night. 

Nathan had pre-arranged mooring and we had been advised to moor on the pontoon, a long floating jetty.  When we arrived in the evening gloom we couldn't even see the pontoon, the entire area covered by boats.  Nathan phoned again and we were told to pull up alongside another barge and make fast.  It turned out to be an Australian couple on their way to Calais.

Approaching the Dartford crossing

We were exhausted after a long day's concentration but the excitement was palpable.  The weather was still looking favourable but you never know what the conditions are going to be like until you get on the Channel. 

Avoiding the Yasmine, a huge ferry bound for Zeebrugge


We knew the next day would be another long day.  We would have an early start, hoping to the tide to pull us through The Swale and then track along the coast past Margate and the across to Nieuwpoort, Belgium.  If the going was too rough or too slow, we would consider making for Dunkirk or Calais but the preference was Belgium as the customs process was a bit more simplified there.

Some iconic London views


A quick supper, short sleep and we would be away at six the next morning.


Channel crossing - Preparing Hendrina

Thursday 30/04/26

Two years ago Nathan bought an unconverted Dutch barge, still in it's freight configuration, and motored it back to London.  For those two years he and Charmaine have been living on board in extremely cramped quarters while renovating the interior to living accommodation.  

Hendrina pictured shortly after arriving in London in 2024

The transformation has been incredible and, although the work is not fully completed, they needed to travel to Europe to maintain the Dutch registration and tax status (another big thanks to Brexit).  

They asked me if I would like to join them as crew and I jumped at the chance and said yes.  The deadline for their crossing was looming so we were all keeping a watchful eye on the weather for a suitable window of opportunity.  She's built for canals and rivers so she really needs good weather conditions and favourable tides to embark on a channel crossing.


Final important touch-ups by the decoration department

Finally, at the end of April it was looking good so I flew over to join them at their berth on the Thames.  There were still loads of final jobs to finish and we all mucked in, fixing, adjusting, testing, checking and clearing up as we went.  It was hard to believe the amount of tools and materials that came out of her.

Earlier picture showing the newly built kitchen / living area

I was lucky to stay in the master suite, mainly because I couldn't 
fit lengthwise  in the original sleeping nook.


An earlier pic of the bathroom which has since been completed

Friday the 1st of May was our target date so, once all the final parts had been delivered and installed we prepared her for sea-trials; a trip upriver to Teddington and back to check everything was working well and ship-shape.

It was good to finally get underway, even if we were going in the wrong direction

My first time at the helm.  The huge rudder exerts a lot of force on the tiller 
so you need your full bodyweight on it the whole time.

Coming back to the berth against the wind made for choppy conditions

Everything went smoothly but the windy, choppy conditions gave us a taste of what was to come.  The initial part of the journey would be down the tidal portion of the Thames, a very busy waterway with a mix of pleasure craft, cruise liners, work boats and passenger clippers racing up and down.

Preps done, sea-trials completed, supper and a quick selfie.

An overview of Hendrina before we left

Choppy return to London

The next day we would check everything one more time and then get ready to slip the ropes a couple of house before high tide.
 

The Penitents of Les Mees

 Tuesday 17/03/26

The Penitents as viewed from our house
Unfortunately you can't see the village built along the base of the cliffs

Les Mees, a town in the valley below us, has huge rock cliffs towering above it called the Penitents as it resembles monks in sackcloth.  There is a trail from the town, up and around the huge rock formation which we've been meaning to hike  ever since we saw the town.  

Today, in spite of being a little stiff from romping in the snow yesterday, we decided to hike the trail before doing some shopping. The total trail, even though only 5km in length takes 2 hours to hike due to the very steep ascent (200m) and then descent again!  

The higgledy piggledy houses of Les Mees


It was quite steep and challenging in parts but absolutely spectacular.  We commented on how rough-and-ready some of the trails are in France.  In the UK they would installed guardrails along the entire route and in South Africa they would have built a zip-line from the top. 😀




I think we might take the day off tomorrow!





Snow-time on the Lure

Monday 16/03/26



 Although the weather has started becoming more spring-like, we've been subjected to a late winter storm.  We even had a little snow in Mallefougasse followed by icy cold conditions and a very strong Mistral wind.  This usually has the effect of clearing all the weather away so when we woke up this morning to a beautiful blue shy, we decided to head up to the top of the Lure to enjoy the snow.  

The snow was melting and the drops would re-freeze but the strong wind 
caused all the icicles to grow at an angle

Stunning views out to the North with the Alps in the distance



Even though the old ski station is only 5km from the house as the crow flies, it is a 25km drive.  Still, it's hard to believe that we have this winter-wonderland on our doorstep.  Although the air temperature was around 0°C when we arrived, the sunshine (and exercise) warmed us up enough to really enjoy the outing.  




We had a wonderful walk and still get quite giddy at the beauty of the snow covered trees and mountainside.  It really is so different to where we grew up.  We are just grateful to have the right type of clothing for this weather as well!




Bonus video:-  This should give you an idea of the wind







Snow-time in Mallefougasse

 Thursday 8/01/26

We've been watching snow covering most of France over the past couple of days but it all missed us -  until now.



We woke up this morning to a wonderful fluffy snow shower - it really is magical.  It really is spectacular, everything smells, sounds and looks so different under the white blanket. 



 Luckily we have nothing chasing us today so we'll spend most of it in front of the  fireplace.



Bonus video:-